THOUGHTS ON SAUCE-MAKING
Apparently the French chef Andre Guillot introduced into the lexicon of cuisine the term stratified to describe a certain sauce-making procedure. While many chefs have used this method, his description helped me to understand the principle more completely than before.
The more I cook the more I seem to utilize this stratification procedure. The results are obtained by a series of rapid reductions whereby the sauce reaches a degree of thickness that we equate with "sauciness" without the application of any traditional thickening agents, or roux.
In the old school of cooking to which I was initially exposed, we were taught to make our brown sauce with a roux. The popular wisdom argued that it was "better" and since we knew of no alternative at the time, we, of course, had to concur. With the advent of nouvelle cuisine we came to discover ways to achieve a rich, intense, glossy brown sauce without roux; it was much finer than its muddy ancestor. I give recipes for brown sauce and lamb brown sauce that are made in this newer style. I still feel there is a place for brown sauces such as these. But I've come to realize that cuisine is limitless in its capacity to teach and to reveal nuance and delight (if we are only willing to accept it) and that perhaps the simplicity of the stratified sauce allows the truest, most natural flavors to pour through.
Stratification depends upon the reduction of a wine or vinegar, followed by the reduction of a protein-rich stock, and then the final addition of cream or butter. In the body analogy earlier in this book, this would be seen as bones plus meat plus flesh; here we see that it is structurally complete. Let us say we are pan-roasting a bird such as quail or squab. Without having a brown sauce in our larder, we can still obtain a wonderful sauce through stratification. The bird is roasted and allowed to rest in a warm place while the sauce is developed. Any excess oil or drippings are discarded from the pan, while any particles remaining in the pan are left alone. Then perhaps we add a fruity vinegar and reduce it substantially, follow with a poultry stock (duck, chicken, quail, or squab), and then at the last moment, whisk in a bit of butter and pour it over the bird. In my opinion, this would be suitable procedure for a delicate dish such as this.
However, consider my recipe for Cajun rib steak. Here I feel a different approach is better. When we roast a prime rib a great deal of fat is rendered. By the time we properly degrease the drippings, we will have spent a great deal of time. By having the brown sauce ready in advance, we can serve the entree just after it has rested an appropriate
length of time. In addition, the rich, vegetable sweetness of the sauce does not overwhelm the robust spiciness of the dish.,
If we draw a comparison to the science of wine, a brown sauce may be likened to a forward and hearty wine such as Zinfandel and the stratified stock reduction may emulate the complexity of a Cabernet Sauvignon. Each has its respective merits and each has a place in modem cooking.