BOUQUET GARNI
4 basil leaves 1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon whole fennel seeds
2 sprigs parsley 1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds
3 sprigs thyme
l/4 cup virgin olive oil 1 cup white wine
1 carrot, peeled and chopped medium 5 pounds fish heads and frames, gills
1 leek, white part only, cleaned and removed and rinsed until no blood
chopped medium remains, roughly chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped medium Water
1 head garlic, cut in half crosswise
1. Make the bouquet garni: Enclose all the ingredients in cheesecloth and tie tightly.
1. 2. Heat the olive oil in a large stock pot until warm. Add the carrots, leek, onion, and
garlic and stir about 5 minutes. Add the fish heads and frames, cover the pot, and let cook for about 5 more minutes. Add the bouquet garni. Add the wine and cook about 2 minutes.
3. Cover the fish bones, herbs, and vegetables with cold water. Leave the pot uncovered. Bring to a low boil and skim the white residue that comes to the top. Reduce the heat and cook 45 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the stock to settle.
4. Strain stock through cheesecloth and chill. Discard vegetables and bones. Reserve until needed.
Note: If you like, you can freeze shrimp shells for stock and use them with the fish heads for added flavor.
1 cup shellfish shells
1 quart Fish Stock (above)
1. Add fresh shells (lobster, shrimp, crayfish, or crab) to fish stock. Heat to a boil, skim, and lower the heat.
1. 2. Cook for about 30 minutes. Strain and chill until needed.
JAVORY CARAMEL SAUCE
The concept of caramelization can be applied to savory dishes, but to take what is conventionally a dessert sauce and turn it into a savory one requires a radical shift from the original direction. This is accomplished by substituting stock and vinegar for what is usually water.
Makes 3 cups
1. Combine the stock, vinegar, and sugar in a heavy saucepan and cook to the caramel stage. It is difficult to see the caramelizing color because of the red of the vinegar, but I look for small puffs or wisps of smoke just on the edges of the pan.
2. Carefully whisk in 2 cups heavy cream, then the duck glaze. Cook briefly. Carefully remove any foam that comes to the surface.
3. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and reserve.
1. 13 ounces Duck Stock (page 242) % cup red wine vinegar (Cabernet Sauvignon, if possible)