1\0AST LOIN OF LAMB,
Poached Raisins, and Black Muscat Compote
Here we stuff the loin of lamb with a finely chopped mixture of garlic, anchovy, and basil. You can cut the recipe in half and serve it as an appetizer, if you like.
The Black Muscat in the compote is an interesting wine. I use the Andrew Quady Winery's Elysium, produced in Madera, California. It has a portlike flavor but it is less viscous than port. If you substitute port you should use a little less to diminish the concentrated sweetness that would occur through reduction.
You can cut up and stuff the lamb, and also do the initial sauce preparation in Step 6, a day ahead if you like.
Serves 4
V/2 pounds boneless lamb loin, cut from 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus
the saddle, bones reserved for stock (or additional for searing
use other bones) V2 cup chopped basil leaves
Cracked black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon chopped rinsed anchovy
fillets
SAUCE
% cup golden raisins 3 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
% cup black raisins and kept cold
1 cup mirepoix vegetables (carrots, onion, 1 cup Elysium Black Muscat wine
celery, and leeks in equal proportions), 4 cups lamb stock
finely diced '/4 cup Armagnac
Cracked black pepper
1. Butcher the lamb loins, removing both the loins and tenderloins. Reserve the tenderloins for another dish. You want to have 4 equal lengths of lamb loin. (You may wish to purchase the loins boneless to simplify preparation. That's fine as long as you have another source of bones for the lamb stock.)
2. Prepare lamb stock as described on page 249.
1. 3. Make a fairly deep (like a pocket) but narrow incision in each length of lamb almost from one end to the other. (Do not "butterfly" it.) Season the lamb and rub it with the
olive oil. Then pack the basil, garlic, and anchovies into the incisions in the lamb.
4. Tie the lamb with butcher's string in 3 or 4 places to secure the filling. Set aside in refrigerator, covered, until you are ready to proceed. (This step may be done one day in advance.)
5. Heat a small pot of water to a boil and plump the raisins for 10 seconds. Pour them through a strainer and refresh them immediately with cold water. Put them into a bowl.
6. Begin sauce by cooking the mirepoix in a heavy saucepan in 2 tablespoons of the butter until they begin to caramelize. Add the Black Muscat wine and reduce to XU cup, then add the lamb stock and reduce it by half. Strain and reserve. (This may be done one day in advance. Remove any fat that accumulates on top.)
7. When ready to serve, preheat the oven to 425 degrees.
8. Heat a saute pan large enough to accommodate the lamb. Add just enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Sear the lamb on all sides, then place the pan in the oven and roast for 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven. Put the lamb on a platter and keep it warm while completing the sauce.
9. Pour off any excess oil, but keep whatever meaty particles may be adhering to the saute pan. Add the Armagnac and tilt the pan toward the heat to deglaze it. Shake it vigorously, and when the flames have subsided, gently scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon. Add half of the raisins.
10. Reduce until almost all of the Armagnac is gone and then add the prepared sauce from Step 6 and the remaining raisins. Reduce the sauce by half, until rich and glazy. Season with cracked black pepper to taste. Add the last tablespoon of cold butter, swirling the pan constantly to distribute the butter.
11. Untie the lamb loins and carve them. Fan them across 4 warm plates. Spoon the sauce and raisins around the meat. Serve.
This deeply flavored and intense dish pairs wonderfully with some of the best Bordeaux of St-Julien-wines that are soft, supple, and laden with deep fruit extract. A few notable California Cabernets (such as those from Dunn Vineyards or Silver Oak Wine Cellars, for instance) are
1. approaching this high standard as well.