JWEETBREADS
with Barsac, Glazed Pearl Onions, and Fettuccine
Barsac is a French wine originating from an area adjacent to Sauternes. It has many of the characteristic sweet, floral perfume qualities of Sauternes, and while Barsac is generally not as highly regarded as Sauternes, it is certainly admired in its own right.
Sweetbreads are the thymus glands of animals; in this recipe, we use calves' sweetbreads. Sweetbreads have a delicate, creamy blandness, are texturally sensual, and make an excellent vehicle for more intense flavors. To improve upon their natural texture, it is wise to soak the sweetbreads in several changes of icy water to remove blood, and then to blanch them in a light court bouillon or water. After blanching, drain them and weight them slightly to firm them up. Peel off the thin outer membrane and discard any excess fat. Then the sweetbreads are ready to be sliced and sauteed.
Serves 4
COURT BOUILLON
10 farm mushrooms, stems removed and 6 tablespoons (% stick) butter
caps wiped, thinly sliced 1 bottle white wine (750 ml)
1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced 2 bay leaves
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced ¥t bunch fresh thyme
Щ onion, peeled and thinly sliced 6 fresh basil leaves
1 stalk celery, cleaned and thinly sliced 12 black peppercorns
2 pounds veal sweetbreads, soaked in 4 1 recipe Basic All-purpose Pasta dough
or 5 changes of icy water (page 206)
PEARL ONIONS
1 pint pearl onions Cracked black pepper to taste
1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves
1. 2 tablespoons sugar About 1% cups (Ч2 bottle) Barsac (or substitute Ч2 cup Champagne vinegar Sauternes)
SAUCE
1 tablespoon butter About 12/з cups (V2 bottle) Barsac
3 shallots, peeled and thinly sliced 1 cup reserved sweetbread court bouillon
6 whole black peppercorns 1 quart heavy cream
1 bay leaf
Flour for dusting sweetbreads 2 tablespoons butter
Salt and cracked black pepper to taste
1. Prepare court bouillon: Heat a large saucepot and sweat the mushrooms, shallot, carrot, onion, and celery in the butter. When they are glazed, add the white wine and cook 10 minutes to reduce the wine. Now add 2 quarts of water and the bay leaves, thyme, basil, and black peppercorns. Cook 20 minutes and then add the sweetbreads. Skim as necessary. Blanch the sweetbreads for 8 to 10 minutes.
2. Lift the sweetbreads from court bouillon and drop gently into icy water for 1 minute. Remove and drain. Chill until cooled completely on a rack in a pan, to allow for drainage. Meanwhile, allow the court bouillon to gently reduce to 1 cup and reserve for sauce. (This takes about 45 minutes to one hour.)
3. Peel off and discard the thin external membrane and any fat from the sweetbreads. Now cut the sweetbreads into Vi-inch slices. Put them on a plate and cover. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
4. Cut pasta dough into fettuccine. Form into nests and dry. Set aside enough to serve 4 and reserve remainder for other use. (Alternatively, you can use excellent quality commercial pasta; if you can obtain freshly made fettuccine, so much the better.)
5. Prepare the pearl onions: Bring a medium-sized pot of water to a boil. Cut off the root ends of the pearl onions but leave the outer skin on. When the water is boiling, add a pinch of salt and the onions. Cook 3 or 4 minutes. Drain and cool under running water. Now pop the onions from their jackets into a bowl. Discard the skins.
6. Heat a medium-sized, heavy saucepan, add the butter and swirl the pan to coat the bottom. Add the pearl onions and cook over moderate heat until they brown a bit. Add the sugar and stir a moment to caramelize. Add the vinegar, turn up the heat a little, and reduce it. Add the cracked black pepper, thyme, and half a bottle of Barsac.
7. Reduce the liquid in the pan. Ideally, you want to adjust the heat and time the process so that the onions are cooked through just as the liquid in the pan is gone. If the onions are tender before the liquid disappears, simply remove them with a slotted spoon to a bowl, reduce the liquid to 3 or 4 tablespoons, and then pour that over the onions. Keep the onions warm.
1. (recipe continues)
8. Begin making sauce: Heat butter in a medium-large saucepan. Add the shallots and cook 1 minute over low heat. Add the peppercorns, bay leaf, and remaining half bottle of Barsac. Reduce this by three-quarters.
9. Add the 1 cup reserved sweetbread court bouillon and reduce again by three-quarters. Add the heavy cream and cook until sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer and reserve.
10. Bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta.
11. Remove the sliced sweetbreads from the refrigerator and dust them lightly with flour, salt, and cracked black pepper to taste.
12. Heat a large, deep skillet to medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and swirl to coat the bottom evenly. Saute the sweetbread slices until golden on each side, 1 or
2 minutes. Remove to a warm platter. Wipe out the pan and add the reserved sauce. Heat to a simmer.
13. Drop the pasta into the boiling water and cook until al dente. (The timing will vary depending on whether the fettuccine is fresh or dried.) When the pasta is finished, drain it well and toss into the sauce. Mix with a pair of tongs to coat the fettuccine.
14. Lift the coated pasta onto plates in mounds. Pour a little extra sauce over each serving. Top the noodles with the sweetbreads and glazed pearl onions. Serve.
A full-bodied white Burgundy such as a Meursault can negotiate both the rich texture and subtle taste of the sweetbreads. If you prefer a red, choose one with a nice feel and delicate flavor, like
a Volnay.