Tomato Concasse: To prepare tomato concasse (from the French concasser, to break up), core a ripe tomato and slash a shallow X on its bottom. Drop the tomato into a pot of rapidly boiling water for 10 seconds, remove with a slotted spoon, and plunge it into a bowl of icy water. When the tomato is just cool, peel it, slice it crosswise, and squeeze and scoop out the seeds. Finally, chop the tomato into medium dice and reserve for its intended purpose. The recipes sometimes specify a given amount of tomato concasse, the dice just described, and sometimes call for a certain number of tomatoes, concassee. The only difference is that in the first case the quantity is finished dice, while in the second it's number of tomatoes.
Zest: The extreme outer layer of various citrus fruits gives an eponymous quality to foods in which it is included. The trick is to remove this layer without taking any of the bitter white pith beneath. You can use a very sharp paring knife or a swivel-bladed peeler. (Be sure the fruit is clean-a quick bath in warm water, followed by thorough drying, is a good idea.) The zest must then be finely minced before measuring. You can do this on a cutting board, but a small electric coffee-bean grinder does a marvelous job, if you have one.
dramatically, some mild and some v extent on how you plan to use them.
When you make stocks, especially at least a day ahead of time. After beii completely, its flavor will have mellov so that you can easily remove it.
To "reduce" means to cook your sai This concentrates and intensifies the 1 greatly reduced, say from 3 or 4 galloi gelatinous and thick that it will harde glaze in English, and is caused by prol halfway.) I feel that it is economical an such glazes. They can be kept for a shor to freeze them in small containers that
Naturally, you should read any recip it. This is particularly important here, at first glance, with several elements ал break down into easily managed procedi several hours or even a day or two ahe larder with some of the basics, so much
Advice and Techniques
Never cook with a wine you wouldn't enjoy drinking.
I like to keep a variety of vinegars on hand. It is not always necessary to use the exact type specified in a particular recipe, but do try to. Small bottles of specialty vinegars are not too costly, and many interesting ones are available in most good markets.
In many of my dishes, I use a combination of olive oil and butter. I like the rich creaminess of butter and the sunny, fruity taste of excellent olive oil. You will want both virgin and extra virgin olive oil in your larder, and perhaps you will enjoy experimenting with some of the many fine varieties from France, Greece, Italy, and even Spain. Their flavors differ dramatically, some mild and some very intense, so your preference may depend to some extent on how you plan to use them.
When you make stocks, especially those based on meat or poultry, try to prepare them at least a day ahead of time. After being refrigerated overnight, the stock will have settled completely, its flavor will have mellowed, and the fat will have hardened on the surface so that you can easily remove it.
To "reduce" means to cook your sauce or stock long enough to decrease its volume. This concentrates and intensifies the flavor while reducing the liquidity. When a stock is greatly reduced, say from 3 or 4 gallons to 1 or 2 cups, it will, on cooling, become so gelatinous and thick that it will harden like a paste. This is called glace in French, or glaze in English, and is caused by protein bonding. (A demiglace is thus a stock reduced halfway.) I feel that it is economical and even practical for the home cook to prepare such glazes. They can be kept for a short period of time in the refrigerator, but it is preferable to freeze them in small containers that are dated, clearly marked, and tightly sealed.
Naturally, you should read any recipe straight through before plunging into preparing it. This is particularly important here. Many of the recipes will appear very complex at first glance, with several elements and a lot of steps. But I think you will find that they break down into easily managed procedures, and that often some portions can be prepared several hours or even a day or two ahead. If you have taken my advice and stocked your larder with some of the basics, so much the better.