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• MEAT ENTREES
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• SAUCES STOCKS AND SALAD DRESSINGS
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SEAFOOD ENTREES
Around 1820, Key West began as a station for "wreckers." John Simonton recognized that the island of Cayo Hueso (Bone Key), with its protective reef, was a place of promise. People could trade prosperously in the bounty from cargo ships that faltered in the treacherous waters immediately outside what would later be called Key West. Although there was no fresh water available on the island, rainwater could be caught and stored successfully. In the city of Havana, Simonton purchased Cayo Hueso on January 19, 1822, from Juan Pablo Salas for two thousand dollars.
Prosper they did. At the end of the nineteenth century, Key West was the richest community per capita in the United States. The wealth poured in from the sea, and the people who settled the island developed businesses that related to the ocean. By the 1930s the free-wheeling town had become notorious, and it began to attract literary folk (Hemingway, Dos Passos, and Robert Frost were part of the famous first wave). Today, fishing and writing remain major interests to Key Westers, and their visitors.
The Overseas Highway that spans the 100-odd miles down to Key West could probably be considered the world's longest fishing pier. The range of waters and types of fish available to the anglers on the edge of US 1 is staggering. Each year more people come to the Keys to participate in the sport of fishing. They vary in ability and interest but they all have one thing in common: an appetite for seafood.
It is a real inspiration to cook with fish of the superb quality available here. On any given day I can obtain the freshest shrimp ("Key West gold"), snapper, yellowtail, grouper, tuna, dolphin, or swordfish. Over the years, I have developed relationships with a small coterie of dedicated professionals who know how to take care of their catch and bring me their best. This chapter is dedicated to the men and women who live their lives fishing the waters around Cayo Hueso, and who bring the fruits of their labors to my kitchen.
NCH LASAGNE
/ created this dish while working in Jupiter, Florida. My friend Prodi Perry was corning from Key West to visit me. I was homesick for Key West so conch came to mind. It has a flavor not unlike clams or abahne, but the texture poses a bit of a challenge. Unless you grind it-which I didn't want to do for this recipe-you've got to pound it paper-thin or it will be as tough as hide. Once you've pounded it, whether for this dish or another local favorite, cracked conch, its texture is delicate and fine.
I make this dish with a flavored homemade semolina pasta but it can be done with a quality dried pasta, and since the recipe is somewhat complicated, that's not a bad idea. If you've made lasagne before, this variation will be easy for you to understand. It's basically alternate layers of pasta, fresh tomato sauce, and a seafood mornay-all flavored with Parmesan, ricotta, herbs, and garlic. This is a good party dish because it can be made a day ahead of time and cooked while you mingle with your guests.
Serves 10 to 12