RISP POTATO CAKES with Sour Cream and Caviar
/ like to use what are called "chef" potatoes (large, round white ones) for these cakes. They are not too wet, which helps avoid an unpleasant gummy texture. It is a good idea to cook the potatoes more than a few hours in advance (or the night before) to allow them to cool completely. This, too, will help to keep them light and crisp.
12 to 16 cakes, depending on the size you make them
unpeeled chef potatoes, scrubbed tablespoons ('/г stick) butter large onion, peeled and chopped medium small bunch scallions, diced tablespoons chopped Roast Garlic cloves (page 200)
tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves teaspoon chopped cilantro teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 egg yolks Salt and cayenne pepper, to taste Peanut oil 14 tablespoons sour cream (about
1 tablespoon per cake) 14 teaspoons caviar (black American
sturgeon, salmon roe, whiteftsh roe, or any combination thereof, to make about 1 teaspoon per cake)
1. Put the potatoes in a pot, cover them with cold water, and bring to a high simmer. Cook until almost but not quite done. Drain well and chill.
2. Heat a large, heavy skillet and add the butter. Mow to get foamy. Saute the onion, scallions, and garlic, stirring, for 3 to 5 minutes. Drain the excess liquid from the vegetables. Add the fresh herbs and cool slightly.
3. Put vegetable and herb mixture in a large bowl. Mix in the egg yolks, salt, and cayenne.
4. Peel the potatoes and shred on the large holes of a box grater.
5. Combine the potatoes with the egg, vegetable, and herb mixture. Taste for seasoning. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
6. Form potato mixture into small cakes or patties approximately 2 inches square. Reserve on a baking sheet until ready to cook.
7. Heat a skillet over moderately high heat. Add peanut oil and swirl. (You could also use your roasted garlic oil, if you have been making roast garlic and have some left.) Add the cakes to the pan. Do not crowd them. When they are brown on both sides, put them in the preheated oven for about 8 minutes to heat through.
8. R.ASAGNETTA with Gulf Shrimp and California Escargots in a Lemon-Mustard Cream
/ began serving lasagnettas like this one in the Cafe at Louie's Backyard one night as part of a whole new menu I was introducing. The same comment kept coming back to the kitchen in one form or another; "Best damn thing I ever ate!" said one petite young lady. The technique is quite simple: two layers of pasta, one on the bottom and one on the top, with the warm cream shrimp and escargot mixture between.
I think you'll be delighted with the lemon-mustard if you make it. You could substitute another prepared mustard, however, such as Dijon.
The California escargots, also known as Petit Gris, are farmed by a company named Enfant Riant, located in Petaluma, California.
Serves 4
1 quart heavy cream V2 cup Lemon Mustard (Page 205) 3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon peeled and finely chopped shallots
12 large shrimp, peeled, deveined and sliced in half laterally
Ph cups small farm or other "wild" mushrooms such as chanterelles or shiitakes, cleaned and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon roughly chopped thyme leaves
24 tiny escargots, rinsed and patted dry
2 tablespoons Pernod Black pepper to taste
Ч2 recipe Basic All-purpose Flour Pasta (page 206) with herbs, rolled out, cut into 2-inch squares, and kept covered
1. Bring a pot of water to boil for the pasta. Add salt.
2. Heat the cream and reduce until just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Whisk in the mustard and set aside.
3. Gently heat a saute pan and add the butter. Just as the butter begins to foam, add the shallots and then the shrimp. Toss or stir a moment and add the mushrooms and thyme. Turn up the heat and add the escargots.
4. When the shrimp is just cooked, add the Pernod and deglaze. Add just enough of the lemon-mustard cream to absorb the shrimp and escargot moisture. Season to taste.emove cakes to plates, top with sour cream and caviar, and serve.
5. Drop the pasta squares into the boiling water and cook until al dente. Drain and lay one square of pasta on each plate. Spoon the shrimp mixture evenly onto each and top with another square of pasta. Serve.