VREAMY MUSSEL SOUP
with Saffron, Orange, and Star Anise
I've never been overly fond of the texture of mussels, but I do enjoy the flavor they impart. When you couple their rich, shellfish taste with the subtle pungency of saffron and the sweet licorice of the star anise, and balance them with the acidity of orange juice and the silkiness of heavy cream, you have a creation that is simply perfect, and utterly delicious.
Serves 4 to 6
1 fennel bulb, core removed, diced medium 2 bay leaves
4 stalks celery, diced medium 4 star anise
2 small onions, diced medium 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
2 tablespoons butter 1 cup orange juice
2 tablespoons olive oil Large pinch saffron
30 mussels, scrubbed, debearded, and 1 quart cream
soaked in several changes of water to Sea salt to taste
rid them of any sand •
1. In a large, heavy pan, saute the fennel, celery, and onion in the olive oil and butter. When the vegetables are slightly tender, add the mussels and cover the pan, shaking it or stirring it from time to time. The mussels should throw off a little of their own juices, resulting in a mussel stock. Do not let all the liquid evaporate from your pan. (You can add a small amount of fish stock or water, if you have to.) The mussels wih begin to open in approximately 10 minutes.
2. Remove the mussels to a bowl as the shells open. When they have all opened and have been removed, add the bay leaves, star anise, and black pepper to the liquid in the pan. Reduce the liquid down to within 1 inch of the bottom of the pan.
3. Now add the orange juice and saffron and reduce again to 1 inch in the pan. Add the cream and reduce until thick enough to just coat a spoon.
4. Meanwhile, pull the mussels out of the shells and put them in a small bowl.
5. When the cream is reduced, remove from heat and strain soup, and add the mussels.
6. Put the soup into a blender and puree in batches. Then strain it again. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reheat gently and serve.
LD AVOCADO, BUTTERMILK, AND GRILLED EGGPLANT SOUP
The flavor of grilled eggplant is soft, smoky, and haunting. With a Caesar salad and grilled bread that has been brushed generously with excellent olive oil, I would be content to call this lunch. Add a bottle ofPinot Grigio and I'd call it dinner.
Serves 10 to 12
4 medium eggplants, lightly oiled 1 large Spanish onion, diced
6 cloves Roast Garlic (page 200), cut into 10 fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped
slivers 1 bay leaf
1 jalapeno, stemmed, seeded, and diced Salt and pepper to taste
4 tablespoons (% stick) butter 1 quart heavy cream
4 leeks, white part only, cleaned and 4 avocados, skin and seeds removed
diced 2 cups buttermilk
3 stalks celery, diced
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Pierce the eggplants and stud them all over with slivers of roasted garlic. Bake the eggplants, turning often, for approximately 30 to 40 minutes.
2. In a medium-heavy saucepan, cook the jalapeno in the butter. Do not allow to brown. Add the diced leeks, celery, and onion and cook until glazed. Stir. Add the basil, bay leaf, and some cracked black pepper. Cook 2 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, remove the tops and bottoms from the eggplants. Remove the skin and as many seeds as possible. Discard any excess liquid, chop the eggplant pulp, and add it to the soup. Add the cream and cook just until the cream simmers.
4. Puree the soup with the avocados and strain; add the buttermilk. Chill.
5. Check for seasoning before serving. A chilled soup often needs a bit more salt and pepper.
Note: If you wish, you may garnish this with sour cream or creme fraiche.